Amboseli: fragile and diverse

Zebras are aplenty in Amboseli

The name Amboseli comes from the word empusel, which in the language of the local Maasai means salty dust. The name makes a lot of sense. Eruptions from the Kilimanjaro (the last one probably happened as recently as 10,000 years ago, according to scientists) have distributed volcanic ashes across the area. The dry bed of the Amboseli Lake, which for a large part of the year is nothing but a huge plain covered with shattered saline earth, occupies the northwestern area and is populated with dusty whirlwinds. It's notorious for its mirages,

Three of the 400 kinds of birds in Amboseli: the Sacred Ibis, the Fish Eagle and a pair of Crowned Cranes

and from experience I can now vouch that such a fata morgana is indeed very convincing.

After our visit with the Maasai Mohamed decides to take us for another short game drive before we return to the lodge for lunch. The sun is bright and hot and the air shimmers. The horizon is filled with yellow columns as dust devils spring up over the dry savanna but Mohamed goes to one of the lusher areas.

Palm tree forest a little south of Ol Tukai oasis

Melting snow from the Kilimanjaro travels underground to feed springs, swamps and marshes all year around. The easy availability of water is what makes Amboseli so popular with the wildlife. Amboseli supports over 50 species of the larger mammals as well as more than 400 species of birds.

Buffalo bulls can weigh up to 700 kilograms

Buffaloes and elephants are plenty in the green oasis where Mohamed takes us. The animals spend the hot afternoon in the shade of palm trees, with plenty of water and grass for feeding. A buffalo bull is momentarily startled when it

Often seen in close proximity: buffalo and elephant

appears from the undergrowth and suddenly notices our van. It sticks its nose up in the air and sniffs for several minutes. Finally it dismisses us. Apparently, we are not conceived to be a threat.

Monkeys also aplenty in Amboseli. Vervet monkeys and baboons live close to the lodges; they know that where there are people, there is food. At the lodges, it is forbidden to feed the monkeys. And it isn't until our final meal at the Serena Lodge that we finally realize that the lone Maasai warrior who always lounges around the restaurant is not there for 'decoration'. He is hired to chase off the monkeys with his catapult. The monkeys are well conditioned; the few times they do gather up their courage and venture into the dining room, a mere step in their direction from the man in red suffices to chase them off.

The Vervet (Green) Monkey is often found close to human habitation.

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